The Smile of Baekje

Rock-carved Buddha Triad in Yonghyeon-ri
서산 용현리 마애여래삼존상
瑞山 龍賢里 磨崖如來三尊像
National Treasure

The fun thing about moving to Seosan was that it was one of the few areas in Korea that I hadn’t explored. I’d been to Boryeong, an hour to the south, Suwon, an hour to the north, and Daejeon, an hour to the east, so it made a nice triangle of territory to discover.

Korea does local tourism very well, so it didn’t take much effort to figure out the famous sites around Seosan. The bus terminal was lined with posters of Seosan’s 8 famous sites. First on the list was “The Smile of Baekje,” an affectionate nickname for a 6th Century rock-carved Buddha triad, Seosan’s only National Treasure.

Tucked away in a secluded valley in Gayasan mountain range, it wasn’t discovered until 1959. Hidden behind a rock outcropping with a natural ledge, the 1500-year-old carving was kept in remarkably good condition. Despite some damage, it’s one of the best preserved examples of Buddhist rock-carving from the Baekje era.

The central Buddha is a representation of Shakyamuni Buddha. He is depicted standing on a lotus pedestal, with the varada mudra, right hand raised, palm out, and left hand pointing down, palm out. The great attraction is the Buddha’s face, with plump, pronounced features, and its alluring smile. On the left is Yeondeungbul/Dipankara, a past Buddha, and on the right is Mireukbul/Maitreya Buddha, the Future Buddha which has been carved in a pensive posture. Though common in cast sculpture, it is the only known example of a rock-carved pensive Buddha. With the early morning light accentuating the contours of their faces, I was, personally, more enchanted by the charismatic charm of the Mireukbul than the central Buddha.

Baekje era sculptures are generally divided into groups; refined, balanced, elegant, and beautiful and then more gentle but majestic folk art. This triad falls into the folk art category but still displays an undertone of elegance and grace.

The age and location of this triad of Past-Present-and-Future Buddhas are evidence of the strategic importance of Seosan between the Chinese-Korean trade route from Taean to Buyeo. Along with goods, there was also the transmission of Chinese Buddhist culture.