Around the South and West coasts of Korea, there are a few islands that are famous for becoming accessible at low tide, as land bridges form when the tide recedes. Ganwoldo, Seosan’s contribution to these phenomena, may be less dramatic than others that I’ve visited but is special for the hermitage, Ganwolam, that takes up the entire island. And for a small island hermitage, it has some interesting history and association with a few of the biggest names in the Korean Buddhist pantheon.
Little is known of Ganwolam before the 14th Century. No one can say when it was first founded but it was originally known as Piansa (a temple name, rather than a hermitage), then was also referred to as Yeonhwadae (Lotus Flower Pavilion) or Nakgasan Wontongdae, because it has the appearance of a lotus floating on the sea. It became known as Ganwolam, 看月庵/Gazing Moon Hermitage, during the 14th Century when a monk named Muhak gazed upon the moon while meditating and realized enlightenment. (看月 is commonly translated as “looking at the moon” but I like the poetic feel of “gazing at the moon.” If my translation is inaccurate, I’d welcome the correction.)
Muhak’s historical significance
Muhak Daesa would become an advisor to Yi Seong-gye, who, in turn, became King Taejo, the founder and first king of the Joseon Dynasty. Muhak used his prowess as a geomancer to help fulfill Doseon Daesa’s 500-year-old prophecy by choosing the of the new Joseon Capital in Hanyang, that would later become Seoul. An amusing anecdote between Muhak and King Taejo occurred one day when King Taejo was in the mood to have a little fun. King Taejo said to Muhak, “You look like a pig!” Muhak replied, “And you, King, look like a Buddha.” King Taejo objected, “We agreed to have some fun and forget our politeness. How is it funny if you say I look like Buddha?” Muhak replied, “When looking with the eyes of a pig, one can only see pigs but when looking through Buddha’s eyes, everyone appears as a Buddha.” King Taejo was impressed with this response and became even more endeared with Muhak.
The hermitage
The best time to visit to fully appreciate the land bridge is just after the high-tide, when there’s just a narrow path exposed. Just before high-tide would have the same effect but the temple closes for a few hours during high-tide, so you wouldn’t be able to access the hermitage.
On the island, you climb the stone stairs to the small gate that has a vague sense of an Iljumun, single pillar gate, but is really more of a doorway. Centered in the courtyard, the main hall is a Gwaneumjeon, Bodhisattva of Compassion Hall, rather than a main Buddha Hall like most temple. This may play into the hermitage’s nickname, as Gwanseum Bosal’s mythical origin is Nakgasan, where they’re often depicted standing on a lotus pedestal. Inside the hall, there is a small, gilted wooden statue of Gwanseum Bosal. By its slim features and gentle smile, the statue is estimated to be 1600-years-old. Beside the Gwanseum shrine is another small shrine with a statue of Jijang Bosal. Then, in the corner are portraits of the three monks most prominently associated with the hermitage; Bukcho Sunim, Mangong Sunim, and Muhak Sunim. Beside Muhak is the Sinjungdan, a painting of the heavenly guardians who protect the island.
Past the Gwaneumjeon is the island’s Sanshingak, Mountain Spirit Shrine. Despite being called Sanshingak, it has paintings of Dokseong, the Lonely Saint, and Chilseong, the Big Dipper (lit. Seven Stars/Seven Saints), which would usually make a Samseonggak, Three Saints Shrine. In this case, the Mountain Spirit is central, rather than the Big Dipper. The paintings don’t appear to be very old but they are painted in traditional styles.
Across from the Sanshingak, to the south, is a small, open air Yongwanggak, Dragon King Shrine. Since Yongwang’s palace is beneath the sea, it’s not uncommon to find his shrines at seaside temples.
Finally, to the west is the bell pavilion. There’s nothing particularly interesting or noteworthy about it but it is quite picturesque in the evening, silhouetted by the sunset.
Around the back of the island, there’s a lower level, below the courtyard, where you can walk along the edge of the shore. The highlight on this side, and one of the most unique features of the heritage, are wood fence posts, each one carved with the face of Gwanseum Bosal. Each one is slightly different and adds an extra bit of charm to the heritage.
Mangong’s historical significance
Despite Muhak’s great relationship with King Taejo, Buddhism in Korea had grown very corrupt and within a couple of decades of the founding of Joseon, Neo-Confusion court officials convinced King Taejong to banish Buddhism from Joseon. After 1000 years of being the official religion of the nation, Buddhism was suddenly relegated to the far off mountains, away from society. Temples in the cities were demolished and monks fell to the bottom of the social cast. Ganwolam was among the places abandoned and forgotten.
More than 400 years later, Korean Buddhism was barely existent at all but like a wave arising on a windless sea, there was a sudden return. Known as the Great Revival, it started with the emergence of Gyeongheo and his disciples, the most prominent of whom was Mangong. Though they practiced Seon meditation in seclusion, they also focused on teaching Seon to laypeople and being accessible to the lay community.
When Japanese colonialism began in 1910, ending Joseon rule, Buddhism was immediately reinstated. Mangong became a massive force, not only as a religious leader but also a major activist of the Independence Movement. His stature was so great, even the Japanese authorities respected him. Most of his life was spent teaching Seon at nearby Sudeoksa monastery but, in 1941, he moved to Ganwolam and rebuilt the hermitage. In 1942, Mangong began a 1000 day prayer for Korea’s independence. His prayer ended in August 1945, and just three days later, Korea regained its independence.
Dragon Ship
Korean temple halls are metaphorical representations of the Dragon Ship that carries us across to the “other shore” of enlightenment. With the waters gently rippling around Ganwolam, you truly get a sense that you’re sailing across the sea.
Somewhere in Dhamma 
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