I’ve “borrowed” this list directly from Professor David A Mason, but it’s one that we’ve discussed and debated several times. Opinions begin to vary and become subjective once you extend the list, as there are dozens of temple that are equally deserving of even a few more spots on the list. These seven are definitively agreed upon as the top-tier of Korean Buddhist temples.
The seven temples share an unparalleled combination of historical and cultural significance, as well as a deep relevance in the development of Korean Buddhism. They are all more than a thousand years old, ranging from the 6th to the 9th Centuries, and are all large, mountain monasteries. Amongst them, there are dozens of Treasures and National Treasures.
A last point, these are merely short overviews and highlights of each temple and not intended to be a comprehensive study. Each temple has enough worthy content to fill a book. Here is a good taste, though, of what you can expect from each site.
Tongdosa
Tongdosa is arguably Korea’s most important temple. Of the “Three Jewels” of Korean temples, Tongdosa represents the Buddha. With more than fifty shrine halls and other buildings, and twenty hermitages, it is the largest of any temple on the peninsula.
Founded in 646, by Ven. Jajang Yulsa, its fame stems from it being custodian to several relics of the historical Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama, that Jajang Yulsa brought back from Tang China. These relics include sari, a jawbone fragment, a tooth, a piece of his robe, and alms bowl.
The Daeungjeon is Tongdosa’s lone National Treasure but it includes the Geumgang Gyedan, Diamond Precept Platform, the focal point of the temple. It is where the Buddha’s sari have been kept inside a budo at the center of the platform. Rather than having a statue at the alter in the Daeungjeon, there is a window looking out at the budo, a trend which has spread to several other temples.
Tongdosa’s shrine halls make for a fascinating day of exploration. From the ancient, faded murals, alter paintings, and abundance of statues, there is something amazing everywhere you look. In total, there are twenty Treasures, including the National Treasure.
Set against the dramatic backdrop of Yeongchuksan, named for its resemblance to Vulture Peak outside of Bodhgaya, one way or another, Tongdosa will take your breath away.
Bulguksa
Of all the temples in Korea, none can match the visual impact of Bulguksa, as you approach the Seokgyemun entrance to the main courtyards. The iconic scene of the two sets of stone bridges leading up to the twin courtyards is unparalleled.
The first set is the lower Yeonhwagyo/Lotus Flower Bridge and upper Chilbogyo/Seven Treasures Bridge, leading the the Geuknakjeon. The second set is the lower Baegungyo/White Cloud Bridge and upper Cheongungyo/Blue Cloud Bridge.
Once you reach the Daeungjeon courtyard, two of Korea’s most recognizable pagodas adorn each end; the stunningly ornate Dabotap, with its famous stone lion, and the simple yet imposing Seokgatap, named for Shakyamuni Buddha.
Part of the Bulguksa complex, near the peak of Tohamsan, is Seokguram, a cave hermitage that holds an exquisitely carved Shakyamuni Buddha. It’s regarded as the pinnacle of Silla Dynasty artistry.
Bulguksa was first founded as a small temple in 528 and took more than two centuries to reach its current size. It was destroyed during the 13th Century Mongol invasions and again during the late 16th Century Imjin Wars with Japan, as it was a militia training ground. Most of the buildings are modern but manage to retain a sense of age.
The stone bridges, pagodas, and Seokguram are each National Treasures, along with the Birojana and Amita Buddhas and reliquaries from the Seokgatap, giving Bulguksa a grand total of eight National Treasures and six Treasures.
Haeinsa
The second of Korea’s “Three Jewels” temples is Haeinsa, representing the Dharma. It carries this distinction due to its incredible collection of over eighty-thousand woodblocks, known as the Tripitaka Koreana, containing an extensive collection of Buddhist scriptures. It the most accurate and oldest surviving Tripitaka in the world, completed in 1248. The woodblocks are a National Treasure as well as the four buildings that house them.
Haeinsa, founded in 802, sits in the stunning slopes of Gayasan National Park. Aside from the Tripitaka, it became an important place of pilgrimage and monastic training during the later stage of the great rival of Korean Buddhism. Master Seongcheol (1912-1993), a student of Master Mangong, was one of the most revered monks of the 20th Century.
Circling the main temple and climbing up the valley, Haeinsa is home of some of Korea’s most stunning hermitages. At the top is Baekyeonam, Master Seongcheol’s former residence. There is a hall perched above the small complex with a life-like casting of Seongcheol inside.
Hwaeomsa
If you’re looking to be awed, Hwaeomsa is the place to visit. Hwaeomsa is the Korean temple version of, “Go big, or go home!” From the giant stone lantern, to the enormous Gakhwangjeon Dharma hall, and its oversized Buddha triad, to being at the southern foot of South Korea’s highest mainland mountain.
Despite its size, Hwaeomsa manages to exude a great deal of charm, which isn’t always the case with such big temples. The slightly more standard sized Daeungjeon has a lovely, old Buddha triad, and the Gwaneunjeon is very intimate. If you’re fortunate enough to visit during the later part of March, you’ll be rewarded with the sight of the famous Hwaeommae, an ancient red plum tree, in full bloom.
Perhaps the main highlight is the Four Lion Three-story Stone Pagoda of Hwaeomsa, one of four National Treasures on site. Set on a ledge, 108-steps up above the Gakhwangjeon, this unique Unified-Silla era pagoda consists of a three-story pagoda balanced on top of four stone lions, and a mysterious standing figure centred beneath the pagoda. With Jirisan’s Nogodan Pass as it’s backdrop, it’s a sight not to be missed.
At the far back of Hwaeomsa, following a path through the bamboo grove, is Gucheungam, a little gem of a hermitage. Known for its wild tea bushes and Silla era pagoda, its true charm comes from the outer pillars of the monks’ chambers. They are made of wrinkled old juniper trees, left as is. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by Hwaeomsa’s grandeur, it’s a great spot to recalibrate.
Buseoksa
Buseoksa, Floating Stone Temple, founded in 676, owns the most famous legend of any temple in Korea. Uisang, returning from his studies in China, was accompanied by the spirit of Seonmyo, a young woman who was so distraught not to be going with him that she threw herself into the sea and transformed into a dragon spirit. When Uisang began constructing his temple, a mob of villagers gathered to fight him off. During the confrontation, Seonmyo, in her dragon spirit form, lifted a huge rock into the sky to smash the villagers with. At the sight of the floating stone, they ran off, leaving Uisang to complete his temple. It’s said that during the Joseon Dynasty, officials were able to pull a string beneath the floating stone from one end to the other, proving that it is floating.
It’s a steep climb from the car park to the main part of the temple but once you reach the lower courtyard, you’re presented with the view of Korea’s most recognizable Beopjonggak, Dharma Bell Pavilion. Walking the path up to the Muryangsujeon leads you underneath the bell pavilion, between its large, wonky support beans. You can look back, through the beams, you can see the Sobeaksan mountain range stretching into the distance.
Once you reach the upper courtyard, the Muryangsujeon sits majestically behind bell pavilion and beside the floating stone. It is among Korea’s most stunning halls and has inspired great scholars to write poems about it. It’s in the conversation for Korea’s oldest existent wooden building, though it lacks the definitive evidence to make the claim. Part of its unique character is the east side-facing shrine, rather than the standard shrines that face the front doors. The clay seated terracotta Buddha is an intriguing hybrid of Amita and Seokgamuni Buddhas. The hall and the Buddha are each a part of Buseoksa’s five National Treasures.
Beopjusa
One of Korea’s most beloved temples, everyone I know who’s visited Beopjusa, founded in 553, talks about being immediately enchanted. It’s that stunning.
After entering the first two gates, you’re presented with the extraordinary Palsangjeon, Beopjusa’s centerpiece. It’s a 17th Century five-story wooden pagoda that doubles as a dharma hall, containing eight key moments of Buddha’s life.
Just as memorable as the Palsangjeon is the standing Mireukbul, Future Buddha, that towers into the sky along side it. Taking a few steps back, and admiring the Buddha, the five-story pagoda, and the rocky peaks of Songnisan National Park behind them, makes this one of the most iconic sights in Korea.
Including the Palsangjeon, there are three National Treasures and twelve Treasures on site. One of the more interesting Treasures is the oversized, 20-ton cast iron cauldron that was used to cook rice for three-thousand monks during Beopjusa’s prime.
Much like Haeinsa, the hiking trails going from the temple up into the mountains are home to some stunning cliff-side hermitages. It’s an extremely popular hiking spot, during the fall.
Located just outside of Cheongju, it’s the easiest temple on this list to make a day trip from Seoul. Though, with Korea’s amazing public transportation, none of the others are particularly difficult to reach.
Geumsansa
One of the more humble temples on this list, along with Buseoksa, Geumsansa, founded in either 599 or 600, really has one must-see feature; its jaw-dropping three-story Mireukjeon, Furture Buddha Hall, the temple’s lone National Treasure.
This area is known for its Future Buddha statues, and the colossal standing Mireukbul triad, enshrined in the Mireukjeon, is a fitting portrayal. There is an anecdote from famed monk Mangong’s biography in which, as a boy, he walked to Geumsansa and, upon standing before the statue of Buddha, decided to become a monk. The story does not specify which statue, but I have a hunch that it was the Future Buddha.
On the hill beside the Mireukjeon, there is a platform with a budo and stone pagoda, in which relics of the Buddha are claimed to be encased. There is a small Palsangjeon beside the platform, with a window shrine facing the budo, rather than a statue.
Directly across the courtyard from the Mireukjron is a charming Daejangjeon, in which is enshrined Seokgamuni Buddha, accompanied by his disciples Kasyapa and Ananda. The intricately carved mandorla that adorns the Buddha is an exceptional feature of the temple.
Honorable mentions
Songgwangsa, Korea’s third of the Three Jewels temples, representing the Sangha, deserves mention. It’s stunning facade, with its stonework along the mountain stream and bridged Sacheonwangmun is majestic and it’s unusual yet wonderful Gwaneumjeon are not to be missed, overall it just comes up short of the others on the list. It’s original Seungbojeon was destroyed by fire, which is very unfortunate since it’s that hall that is the representation of the Sangha, making it the third Jewel. Perhaps, if the original hall was still intact, it would be a list of eight.
Daeheungsa is another gem of a temple, at the foot of Duryunsan, that is so close to being top tier, but just lacks that extra little something. A great temple for its connection to Korean tea culture and some amazing hermitages, and added bonus: the mountain backdrop looks like the Parinirvana Buddha. It also has amazing old dharma halls.
Magoksa is a beautiful and unique temple, with a winding stream that divides the temple in half. It’s also one of a very few temple to have have two main halls, a Daeungbojeon and the two-storied Daewangbojeon on a terrace behind the first one.
Similar “almost but not quite” temples include Ssanggyesa, Jikjisa, Beomeosa, Dongwhasa, and Seonamsa. All are amazing and many are higher on my personal favorites than the top seven, but from an objective perspective, they just don’t match the criteria of
Somewhere in Dhamma 
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